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Money & Abundance Workshop Group

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Nestor Blokhin
Nestor Blokhin

Cav Dpa Injection Pump |LINK|



The internal transfer blades and liner can be replaced while the fuel pump is still installed on the tractor or engine. While most failures require the pump to be removed and fully repaired, we do see many instances of a worn transfer pump which can be replaced in the field. The following instructions are a simple 'how to' for DPA style pumps fitted for diesel applications from about 1970 to 1990.




cav dpa injection pump


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3. As pictured above, pull out the liner and blades and install the new parts. This will allow the injection pump to build pressure and in many instances this simple repair can solve poor performance, hard starting, or running rough.


This kit contains (1) top cover gasket, (2) top cover nut fiber washers, and (4) O-rings for throttle/cut-off shafts on CAV / Lucas / Delphi DPA distributor type injection pumps, as used on many brands of tractors and diesel engines. This kit will fix throttle/cut-off shaft leaks, and/or top cover gasket leaks. See related products below for a complete gasket/seal kit for CAV DPA pumps.


My neighbour bought a JCB 3CX last month (perkins 4.236 engine with CAV DPA 3241F350 pump), and it had been running fine until he ran out of fuel at the start of the week. He put 4 gallon of diesel in it, and I bled it up for him. He fuelled it up, and it ran fine for about an hour before spluttering to a halt again, and I've been unable to get it running again since.Fitted a new fuel filter as the old one was full of dirt.Kept getting seemingly random pockets of air from the top bleed screw on the pump - we'd bleed up to the pump, then after several attempts at getting fuel to the injectors, check the pump again and get more air.After checking to see where fuel was going/not going, discovered the small hole in the bleed pipe banjo bolt on the filter head was choked. Cleared that out and it stopped the random air in the pump.Still wouldn't bleed to the injectors, so after more pipe disconnecting, discovered that no fuel was coming out the pump bleed screws with only the inlet pipe connected (the fuel that came out previsouly was obviously coming in via the pump return pipe as the entire fuel system is slightly pressurised due to the only return to the tank being via the bleed banjo/injector leak of pipes).Dismantled the regulator on the back of the pump and found the pump inlet filter was choked. Cleaned it which meant fuel could get into the pump the right way, and plenty fuel now comes out the bleed screws when opened (I still have the pump return pipe of).But it still refuses to pump anything upto the injectors. When you first start cranking the engine, a couple small bubbles come out the injector pipes, but that's it.One thing I have noticed, is there is minimal fuel coming out the pump return port.Does anybody know if fuel should be able to flow freely through the pump?I've now come to the conclusion the pump is most likely needing removed and overhauled, but is there anything obvious I've missed?Or any other tricks I can try to nurse it back into life?thanksMoray


All I can suggest is back to basics. Sometimes with these problems it helps if you put a length of clear pipe in the supply _just_ before the pump - that way you can monitor air bubbles and confirm the suction side of the system is tight.I've a DPA pump on my Massey 575 - probably the same Perkins engine as the JCB and that's prone to clogging the ''last chance'' filter gauze situated just below the fuel inlet union. The lift pump strainer clogs too ('kin 'effin Diesel bug :-( )One thing is certain, these pumps are really robust and the trivial cock-up of allowing it to run dry of fuel will in no way necessitate an overhaul!Julian.


You probably need to loosen the delivery valves on the pump.This isthe 9/16" AF headed bolts that hold the injector pipe banjos to thepump body.Leave the pipes on the injectors and spin the engine over onthe starter.If it`s the pump where the pipes come of the end plateforget I said that and just give it a squirt of ether.On things like that it`s better to start at the tank outlet and checkthe flow there,check the banjo bolts if it has them on the lift pumpand filter housing as some come with gauze filters in them,take thelid of the lift pump and clean the gauze and also the one on theinjection pump inlet that you have done.Unless it`s been well lookedafter you will find muck everywhere due to being filled fromcontainers of dubious cleanliness over the years.I`ve done dozens ofthem over the years.Went to a Manitou forklift the other week that the owner had just puta recon engine in and wondered why the revs died after a fewseconds.Everything including the injection pump was full of muck.He`djust refitted all the bits he`d taken of the old engine.


I think slackening the banjo bolts is the only thing I've not tired, so I'll give that a try later.I'm happy that enough fuel is getting to the pump, as there's a steady stream from the filter bleed pipe when cranking, and a continuous stream from the lowest of the pump bleed screws (I've never seen a steady a stream from the top bleed screw during cranking on any engine with a DPA pump)The only thing that I'm not sure about, was when I removed the pump inlet filter (on top of the regulating valve), the regulating sleeve lifted out aswell as the filter was seized onto it, which meant I had to take the valve body of the pump (4 bolts) to get everything back together, as the piston and spring stayed in the body. I put everything back as it came out, but one thing I did notice was the small spring at the bottom was sitting on it's side. So I turned it so the smaller end of the spring (spring is tapered at one end) was pointing upwards so the piston would hit it and not fall into the spring.I also noticed the casing was pretty badly scored where the transfer pump runs against it, which is why I'm now swaying towards taking it of and at least getting it tested (I've told the neighbour of the prospective cost, and he's happy enough provided that'll solve the problem)I've also tried the ether approach, but it made no difference.thanksmoray


There's actually 3 springs.Small one at the bottom, which the piston pushes down against during priming.Middle sized one that sits on top of the piston which regulates transfer pump pressure.And a large one that goes between the piston sleeve and fuel inlet adapter.I tried cranking the engine with the pump inlet pipe of again, and the pump is drawing in next to no fuel, which makes me think the transfer pump has died.The neighbour did say he thought it seemed a bit sluggish after he refuelled it, which I had put down the filter getting choked, but it turns out the previous owner also ran out of fuel a couple of times, and had had no problems bleeding it. He also said he'd never serviced it, so the filters have probably been full of dirt for a while.With ether, it fired but wouldn't run.I'll give it one last chance tomorrow to bleed up, and if it doesn't, I'll just take the pump of and drop it into the local specialist for testing, as I think every trick has now been tried, except ATF...thanksmoray


The JCB was finally resurrected yesterday, after having the injection pump overhauled.Report back from the pump people was it was full of dirt (no surprise there!), and the cam ring was breaking up.thanksmoray


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NOTE: The shaft of a new or rebuilt pump is locked so the key aligns with the drive gear key way when cylinder Number 1 is at top dead center on the compression stroke. Install the pump. Make sure the key does not fall into the gear housing.


Each towing vessel must have either a self-priming, power-driven, fixed fire pump, a fire main, and hoses and nozzles in accordance with paragraphs (a) through (d) of this section; or a portable pump, and hoses and nozzles, in accordance with paragraphs (e) and (f) of this section.


(c) Vent pipes for integral fuel tanks. Each integral fuel tank must have a vent that connects to the highest point of the tank, discharges on a weather deck through a bend of 180 degrees, and is fitted with a 30-by-30-mesh corrosion-resistant flame screen. Vents from two or more fuel tanks may combine in a system that discharges on a weather deck. The net cross-sectional area of the vent pipe for the tank must be not less than 312.3 square millimeters (0.484 square inches), for any tank filled by gravity. The cross-sectional area of the vent pipe, or the sum of the vent areas when multiple vents are used, must not be less than that of the fill pipe cross-sectional area for any tank filled by pump pressure.


There must be an installed or portable bilge pump for emergency dewatering. Any portable pump must have sufficient hose length and pumping capability. All installed bilge piping must have a check/foot valve in each bilge suction that prevents unintended backflooding through bilge piping.


(a) A towing vessel must have independent, duplicate vital auxiliaries. For the purpose of this section, vital auxiliaries are the equipment necessary to operate the propulsion engine, and include fuel pumps, lubricating oil pumps, and cooling water pumps. In the event of a failure or malfunction of any single vital auxiliary, the propulsion engine must continue to provide propulsion adequate to maintain control of the tow.


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